Walk Along the Cotswolds Canals by Ann Hartley
Last March we thought it would be interesting to walk the towpath of what are now named The Cotswold Canals, comprising the Stroudwater Navigation and the Thames and Severn Canal.
Two nights BB were booked in Randwick, near Stroud, this enabled us to leave the car at home and travel by train to Stroud. We stayed at this BB before while walking the Cotswold Way. We were told on arrival that the chef at the local pub had "gone off" on a course so dinner was also "off." All was not lost as there was another pub a mile away.
Next morning our host took us with his three dogs to Saul Junction, where the Gloucester & Sharpness Canal crosses the Stroudwater Navigation. He then disappeared along the towpath of the former and we along the towpath of the latter.
It was difficult to find the course of the canal in places, especially at the roundabout on A38. A huge lorry was parked in front of the footpath sign while the driver had a sleep. We were told that when fully restored the canal will pass underneath the roundabout. After a short detour it was back to the canal at Westfield Bridge, next the restored locks of Dock and Pike, where small craft can use the canal. Also public boats sometimes leave from Eastington Wharf.
After two more locks we came to the "plastic" liftbridge at Bonds Mill, it is electronically operated and is made from reinforced glass fibre. Most unusual.
There were many mills in the old days, and some have been restored and are in use as offices, others have fallen into decay. It is good to see some surviving after all the years.
The lock before the first roundhouse at Chalford (Ryeford double lock) was rebuilt due to a burst water main on the road above. The water caused the lock wall to collapse and rebuilding was possible from the compensation. An ill wind as the saying goes.
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Chalford Round House |
As we arrived at Chalford the rain turned from drizzle to large
drops, we were glad it was time to return to Randwick. We passed the first
roundhouse which has been tastefully restored. (These roundhouses were a feature
of this canal but now only four remain.) As the bus stop was nearby we caught
a bus back to Stroud for the night.
Next morning our host took us out again to the start at Chalford, and we walked up the Golden Valley to a pub past numerous ruined locks. Soon after passing the Daneway Inn the canal disappears into a tunnel at Sapperton. The western portal has been restored by the Canal Trust, but the cottage has collapsed into a pile of rubble.
We had to leave the canal once more and walk through Sapperton Village. The route was not easy to find, and we wondered if this was the way the men and horses went, as it passed at least two pubs we decided it probably was! The route continues through some lovely woods before emerging at Tunnel House Inn, and the Eastern Portal of the tunnel.
Later we arrived at the second roundhouse which has been rescued by the trust, but is a mere shell now.
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As the towpath is no longer a right of way from Coatesfield Bridge we took to the fields, passing the supposed source of the River Thames. A plaque is sited where once the figure of Old Father Thames rested. The statue can now be seen at St. John's lock on River Thames. It is thought that the river actually arises from some springs in Sapperton Tunnel. At Smerill we re-joined the canal at Halfway |
Later on at Northmoor Lane the canal has been worked on by the WRG to Wildmoorway Lower Lock, there is a large pond under restoration here. Beside Cerney Wick Lock we discovered the third roundhouse surrounded by trees. Here we turned off to find our lodging at nearby Cricklade. In this area the Cotswold Water Park lakes have been created out of old gravel workings, and are used for a variety of water sports and nature reserves.
Next morning we left Cricklade, through a slurry filled farmtrack (which is designated as the Thames path). After a while we came across a farm entrance with two mileposts, "rescued" from the towpath, proudly displayed on either side of the drive.
Now we were walking on lanes and fields well away from the old towpath, but we wanted to see the fourth roundhouse at Marton Meysey. This has been restored and a large house has been built onto it.
It seems after this, there is not much left to see between Castle Eaton and Lechlade, and as part of the route is along two kilometres of busy road which we had previously encountered on the Thames Path walk, we decided to finish at Castle Eaton.
There is another roundhouse where the old canal joins the Thames at Lechlade but it is on private land and not easy to see from the Thames Path.
There seems to be a lot more work to be done to restore the canal to its former glory. Although I am sure it will be a popular route if this is achieved.
If you wish to know more about this canal an interesting booklet is published by the Cotswold Canals Trust, containing some pictures of old postcards and photos from their archives. The Trust office phone no. 01285 643440.